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The Brooklyn Columbus Parade, held each October through in heart of Bensonhurst, offered no street food of its own. The sole ice cream truck in sight was rolling along in the procession itself, not far removed from a flotilla of vintage Corvettes. Near the midpoint of the route, however, carefree parade-goers like me could pop in on Villabate for its Sicilian rendition of an ice cream sandwich, gelati on brioche (shown with pistachio and hazelnut, $4). Disciplined units like the Fort Hamilton High School band marched by in formation, but once they broke ranks at the dispersal point, there’s no telling how many may have doubled back.

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